Preparing to leave the UK, where I’d spent several weeks away from the heat of southern Spain in the company of family and friends, the thought of going “home” brought up very mixed feelings. That’s not unusual: I always miss my children and grandchildren more intensely after having them nearby, while looking forward to my return to Granada. This time though, I was not returning to what I still think of as home, but to my new abode on the coast, to Salobreña and the flat I occupied for a mere two weeks before flying off to England.

I arrived late in the evening, too late for the last bus, so it was a taxi that whisked me in what felt like the wrong direction. Had I made a terrible mistake with this move? Would I be able to settle in a small coastal community after the buzz of Granada, a university city with a rich culture and history? The air felt hot and sticky; the temperature a degree or two lower than in Granada but with much higher humidity.
Arriving in my flat, I found it in darkness: at some point during my absence the power had tripped. This might not have mattered if I’d emptied the fridge before leaving. Along with its contents (fortunately minimal) it was now mouldy and foul-smelling. Even after cleaning, the smell still lingers. The climate on the Costa Tropical differs from Granada in that night temperatures here drop only a degree or two, making sleep difficult. Having just ordered the first essential, a washing machine, I can see that a ceiling fan for the bedroom will have to be my next priority.
“We take cold showers every hour during the day,” confided one friend. It’s the only way.” This is the worst time of year for humidity, everyone tells me. I remind myself that at least winters will be easier than in Granada, where I nearly froze to death in my cold house. Another compensation for the discomfort I’m suffering lies in the abundance of cheap, locally grown tropical fruits on display in every greengrocer’s. I’m feasting on peaches, plums, mangoes, melons and avocados, to name just a few. All are ripe, juicy and full of flavour.

I’m sure I’ll become used to my new life after a few weeks or months. Autumn is the ideal time to be on the beach and swimming in the sea: for me it’s the best type of relaxation. I look forward to that and, once the heat subsides, to exploring the area around Salobreña on foot and by bike; to making new friends and reconnecting with old ones from Granada, which is not very far away at all; to welcoming my family who all love the seaside.

Salobreña has much to recommend it, including a picturesque historic quarter on a hill with a castle. As you approach by road from Granada, the view of its sugar-cube houses clustered beneath the castle with the sea in the background is stunning. The Casa de Cultura organises many interesting events – talks and films and concerts. Antonio, owner of the fantastic bookshop, Librería 1616, and the public library ensure that literature features strongly in Salobreña’s cultural life. A recent Arts Festival resulted in colourful and eye-catching murals scattered around the town, one of them right opposite my flat. A few photos will convey better than words the attractions of my new surroundings.











